Niacinamide: The One Ingredient Almost Every Skin Type Needs

What Is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide — also called nicotinamide — is the active form of vitamin B3. Unlike niacin, it doesn't cause flushing, and unlike nicotinic acid, it's stable in cosmetic formulations at a wide pH range.

It's water-soluble, works across pH 5–7, and is one of the few actives that is genuinely well-tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive and acneic skin.

What the Science Actually Shows

The clinical evidence for niacinamide is unusually solid for a cosmetic ingredient. In randomised controlled trials, 5% niacinamide:

• Reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by strengthening the skin barrier
• Decreased melanin transfer to keratinocytes, visibly fading hyperpigmentation
• Reduced sebum production in sebaceous glands
• Lowered inflammatory papules and pustules in mild-to-moderate acne

Pro Tip: 5% is the sweet spot backed by most studies. Going higher (10%+) doesn't add proportional benefit and can cause irritation in sensitive skin.

Does It Really Conflict With Vitamin C?

This is the great myth of skincare science. The concern was that niacinamide

and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) would react to form nicotinic acid — the compound that causes flushing.

The reality: this reaction requires sustained high temperatures (above 60°C) over prolonged periods. At room temperature, on skin, the reaction rate is negligible. Modern studies have found no clinical evidence of flushing when both are used together.

You can layer them. The order doesn't matter much — apply vitamin C first if you want to be conservative, since it benefits from lower-pH skin.

How to Incorporate It

Niacinamide works best in serums or moisturisers at 5%. Apply it after cleansing and toning, before heavier occlusive moisturisers or SPF.

It's compatible with:

• Retinoids (helps counteract irritation)
• AHAs and BHAs (apply at separate times of day)
• Hyaluronic acid
• Peptides
• SPF ingredients

Comedogenic and Safety Profile

Comedogenic rating: 0 — non-comedogenic.

Pregnancy safety: Safe — one of the few actives fully cleared for use during pregnancy.

Sensitivity risk: Low — but patch test at 10%+ concentrations.

Explore niacinamide in our Ingredient Database →

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