Comedogenic Ratings Explained: Why Your 'Clean' Moisturizer Might Be Breaking You Out
What Comedogenic Actually Means
A comedogen is any substance that promotes the formation of comedones — the blocked follicles that become blackheads, whiteheads, and ultimately inflammatory acne lesions. A comedogenic ingredient contributes to this blockage, either by physically occluding pores, by triggering abnormal keratinisation within the follicle, or by feeding Cutibacterium acnes (the bacterium central to acne formation).
The word comes up constantly in skincare marketing, but the ratings behind it are frequently misunderstood — and sometimes weaponised to sell products that aren't actually safer for acne-prone skin.
The 0–5 Scale Explained
The comedogenic scale rates ingredients from 0 to 5 based on their likelihood of causing comedone formation:
- 0 — Will not clog pores (niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, zinc oxide)
- 1 — Very low likelihood (argan oil, hemp seed oil, rosehip oil)
- 2 — Low to moderate (sweet almond oil, squalane derived from sugarcane)
- 3 — Moderate (coconut oil, some silicones in certain formulations)
- 4 — High comedogenic potential (coconut butter, cocoa butter, palm oil, linseed/flaxseed oil)
- 5 — Very high — avoid for acne-prone skin (isopropyl myristate, wheat germ oil)
These ratings originated from rabbit ear assays conducted in the 1970s — a test in which substances were applied to rabbit ears and follicular response was assessed. Human skin is different from rabbit ear skin, and the original methodology has significant limitations.
The Top Offenders Hiding in Popular Products
The frustrating reality is that many 'natural', 'clean', and 'gentle' products are packed with high-comedogenic ingredients. Here's what to watch for:
Coconut oil (rating: 4) — The wellness world's darling. Deeply occlusive and high in lauric acid, which is excellent for some purposes but a reliable pore-clogger for many people. Often appears in 'natural' moisturisers and cleansing balms.
Isopropyl myristate (rating: 5) — A synthetic ester used to give products a silky, non-greasy skin feel. One of the highest-rated comedogens. Found in many drugstore moisturisers and foundations.
Wheat germ oil (rating: 5) — High in oleic acid and linoleic acid, marketed for its vitamin E content. Very high comedogenic potential despite its 'nourishing' reputation.
Cocoa butter (rating: 4) — Beloved in body butters and stretch mark creams. The face is a different matter — cocoa butter is significantly comedogenic.
Linseed (flaxseed) oil (rating: 4) — Trending in 'clean beauty' formulations for its omega-3 content. High comedogenic potential.
Coconut butter (rating: 4) — Similar profile to coconut oil, often used in lip products and richer moisturisers.
Palm oil (rating: 4) — Common in budget formulations. High saturated fat content contributes to pore-clogging.
Soybean oil (rating: 3) — Moderate risk. Found in many budget body and face products as a filler emollient.
**Olive
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oil (rating: 2)** — Lower risk but not zero. Its high oleic acid content can disrupt the skin's natural lipid balance and promote C. acnes growth in some individuals.
Pro Tip: Seeing coconut oil as the second or third ingredient in a 'natural' moisturiser while wondering why you're breaking out? You've found your culprit.
Why Concentration and Formulation Matter
Here's the critical nuance the ratings don't capture: concentration and formulation context change everything.
A rinse-off cleanser containing coconut oil has minimal comedogenic impact — it's washed away before significant absorption occurs. The same coconut oil as the second ingredient in a leave-on moisturiser is a very different proposition.
Emulsification also matters. Oils dispersed in a well-formulated emulsion behave differently on skin than the neat oil applied directly. A 2% coconut oil component in a sophisticated emulsion is far less likely to cause problems than pure coconut oil used as a face moisturiser.
Does Skin Type Change the Risk?
Significantly, yes. Comedogenic ratings are not universal:
- Oily skin is generally more susceptible to comedogenic ingredients because excess sebum already creates an environment where pore blockage is more likely.
- Dry skin may tolerate higher-rated emollients better because the added occlusion is what the skin needs.
- Individual variation is enormous. Some people apply coconut oil to their face daily with no breakouts. Others react to trace amounts. Your personal history with ingredients matters more than any published rating.
How to Read an Ingredient List for Comedogenic Risk
When evaluating a new product:
1. Look at the first five ingredients — these make up the bulk of the formula. A high-comedogenic oil in the top five is a genuine concern for acne-prone skin.
2. Check mid-list ingredients — ingredients between positions 6 and 15 are present in meaningful concentrations. Isopropyl myristate in this zone is worth noting.
3. Ignore bottom-of-list occurrences — ingredients below 1% (typically listed after preservatives like phenoxyethanol) are present in such small amounts that their comedogenic potential is largely theoretical.
4. Watch for 'natural' red flags — coconut oil, cocoa butter, wheat germ oil, and palm oil are especially common in 'clean beauty' formulations where they're positioned as virtuous ingredients.
5. Consider the product format — a face oil will deliver more of its ingredients to skin than a face wash. Assess risk relative to how long the product sits on skin.
Comedogenic ratings are a starting point, not a verdict. They're most useful when you're troubleshooting breakouts that don't respond to typical acne treatments — often, the culprit is hiding in plain sight in a moisturiser or oil you assumed was fine.
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